Start with the Soil

Everything above ground depends on what is happening below it, so spring is the moment to give your trees the best possible start. Begin by clearing weeds and grass from around the base of each tree. A clear ring of at least 60–90cm is ideal for young trees, and wider for mature ones. Grass and weeds compete fiercely for water and nutrients, and they win more often than you might expect.

Once the ground is clear, spread a generous layer of well-rotted manure or garden compost, roughly 5–8cm deep. Keep it a hand's width away from the trunk itself — piling mulch against the bark encourages rot and invites mice to nest. Spread it out to the drip line, where the feeder roots are most active. If your soil is heavy clay, fork it over lightly first; if it is light and sandy, mulch is especially valuable for holding moisture.

A word on feeding: established trees rarely need much, but a balanced general fertiliser or a handful of blood, fish and bone scattered around the root zone in early March will support strong growth. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, which produce soft leafy growth at the expense of fruit.

Finish Pruning Before Growth Begins

The window for winter pruning closes as sap starts to rise. Complete any structural work on apples, pears, quinces and medlars now, while the trees are still dormant. Remove dead, damaged and crossing branches first, then thin out congested growth to let light and air into the centre of the tree. Aim for an open, goblet-shaped framework.

Stone fruits — plums, cherries, peaches and apricots — are a different matter. Pruning them in wet, cold weather leaves wounds open to silver leaf disease and bacterial canker. Either finish the job in late winter on a dry, frost-free day, or wait until midsummer. If you must remove a damaged branch in spring, make a clean cut and leave it unpainted.

Young trees benefit from formative pruning to build a good shape, while mature trees usually need only light thinning. Take your time, step back often, and never remove more than a quarter of the canopy in one go.

Check Ties, Stakes and Guards

• Inspect tree ties and loosen any that are cutting into the bark — trees swell noticeably in spring.
• Replace broken or rotten stakes before the tree starts moving in the wind.
• Repair rabbit and deer guards, and check the base of each tree for gnawed bark.
• Firm in any tree that has been rocked loose by winter gales, but do not stamp on waterlogged ground.

These small jobs take an afternoon and prevent years of problems. A tree that rubs against a stake or a tight tie will develop a weak trunk that never fully recovers.

Watch for Pests and Disease

Spring is when problems announce themselves, and early detection makes all the difference. Grease bands around the trunks of apple and pear trees trap the wingless females of the winter moth as they climb to lay eggs. Check them weekly and renew if they become clogged with debris.

Look closely at buds and young shoots for aphids, which cluster on soft new growth. A strong jet of water from a hose dislodges them, and ladybirds and lacewings will often do the rest. Inspect the bark for canker — sunken, dead patches with cracked edges — and prune out affected wood well below the damage, sterilising your tools between cuts.

Apples and pears may show signs of scab as leaves unfurl, particularly in a wet spring. Raking up and binning fallen leaves reduces the spores that carry it forward. Good air circulation, achieved by sensible pruning, is your best long-term defence.

Pollination and Blossom

Blossom time is the most important fortnight of the orchard year. Most apples and pears are not self-fertile, so they need a compatible partner flowering at the same time nearby. If your crop has been disappointing despite good blossom, check your varieties' pollination groups before blaming the weather.

Encourage pollinators by leaving dandelions and other early flowers in the grass until the trees have finished blooming. Never spray anything while blossom is open — bees are doing your work for you, and a single ill-timed treatment can cost you the entire crop.

Keep an eye on the forecast. A hard frost during full bloom can wipe out the fruit before it sets. Where trees are small or in containers, drape fleece over them in the evening, or move pots into a shed. For larger trees, there is little to do but hope, though a sheltered site always helps.

Thin, Water and Observe

If the set is heavy, wait until after the natural June drop, then thin apples and pears by hand so fruits sit 10–15cm apart. It feels brutal, but the remaining fruit will be larger, healthier and less likely to break branches. Plums and cherries usually need less thinning, though congested clusters benefit from a light tidy.

Water newly planted trees thoroughly in any dry spell — a full watering can per tree, twice a week, is far better than a daily sprinkle. Established trees rarely need irrigation, but a prolonged dry April can affect fruit size later on.

Above all, walk your orchard regularly. Ten minutes with a mug of tea, looking at buds, bark and leaves, will teach you more than any book. Notice what changes week to week, and you will spot trouble while it is still small — which is exactly what a healthy, productive orchard is built on.